word up,

just curious, HOW do u condition and clean your leathers ?? be specific... like, the products you use... cuz mine are fairly new, but i know you have to keep them nice so they stay durable and such... anybody get theirs "water proofed" ? can you water proof them ??? suggestions ???

products and methods please

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2002 Bandit 1200S

I've never had to do anything to my HJC sport 2 jacket, after over a year its still in perfect condition (except for the 4 million dead bugs on it). I'm curious as well as to the maintaince of leather.

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I went to the local auto parts and glamour shop and picked up a bottle of Blue Magic Leather Cleaner and a bottle of Blue Magic Leather Conditioner.

Just spray the cleaner on a cloth and wipe until you heart's content, let them sit for a bit to make sure they are dry and then spray the conditioner on a new cloth and wipe away.......when done wait about 20minutes and go back and "buff" with a clean dry cloth.

You could use Kiwi saddle soap to clean them as well.....for waterproofing you could try the spray on Camp Dry but it smells to high heaven. Best bet is to avoid the rain or get a good rain suit.

You could also try Mink Oil but it can leave a greasy film and will darken light colored leather, this stuff is mainly for boots, etc.

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Jamie

To keep leather clean, use saddle soap; wipe and let dry overnight. To keep it conditioned, I use "Neetsfoot"oil;put some on a soft cloth and wipe outside surfaces lightly, let dry overnight. It will keep leathers from soaking up small amounts of water during lite rain; does not waterproof.

Waterproofing leather is pretty much a waste of time....if you get enough oil or sealent to make it waterproof, it doesn't breath and starts to rot from the inside out. If you ride in the rain a lot, buy your rainsuit sized to fit over your leathers, and give the leather a chance to dry out...then saddle soap and let dry another day, then re-oil.....sounds like a lotta work but I've got one jacket I bought 22 years ago and is still servicable.

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I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made the horn louder.............

When everything is coming your way....you're in the wrong lane.

Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm.

i use the cleaner and conditioner that came with my leather couch, i'm not sure what brand but every furniture store probably has the same stuff.

I use the couch stuff too!

I usually use saddle soap to clean my boots. Oxtar recommended Niwax cleaner and conditioner for their boots. I picked some up and I was really impressed with it. I bought mine at Campmor (www.campmor.com).

At Walmart, they sell a spray on for your car in a tan bottle, i forget what it is called. there is a cleaner, and a conditioner, two different bottles. It is the BEST stuff for your leather goods. I read a long and detailed report (I think falcn linked me) about leather care products. The most important thing for a product id that is has a pH around 7, and that it remoisturizes the leather without blocking moisture by filling it with oil.

The surprising thing was saddle soap was deemed not good at all, but one or two of the simple things at walmart were rated top notch.

The liquid dispensors are easier to apply. I have been using the stuff on my leather seats in my car for three years, and they look brand new all the time. I have been using it on my leather suits for the bike, about once every two months, and they look brand new as well.

Keith

Keith, for the life of me I can not find that link now

I use Penguin Leather Lotion. I can't find it online now....sigh.

The leather lotion is a liquid, kind of like a hand cream. Barnacle Bill actually just says "Just use your girlfriends hand cream on your suit..." but there are so many that I am not sure which one he is thinking of...I like the way the Penguin stuff works. It's a cleaner and conditioner in one, and good for colors too.

I have used Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner in the past on my car seats. It always worked pretty well for me, so if I can find it, I'll probably use that on my suit. It was a spray on cleaner and a lotion type conditioner.

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Even the Ninja must run....in the face of a Hurricane.

Maybe when you and CP went out for beers? j/k

I've always used mink oil for my gloves, boots, and my non-motorcycle jacket. It is kinda greasy if you don't allow it to "soak" into the leather. Usually I let it dry for at least 24 hours. Like Oldetymebike said it doesn't make the leather waterproof, but I have also heard that the silicone sprays that waterproof aren't good for leather.

I use saddle soap as a cleaner, but not as a conditioner....

I have done the following and have kept boots serviceable for 5+ years:

Clean boots with water and saddle soap.
Use leather dye on soles, boots and laces.
Apply mink oil.
Polish and buff to shine as desired.
For hard use / hiking boots additional application of mink oil.

Let surface dry between each application.

Mink oil can be buffed with a good brush and it will take a light shine and not be waxy or oily.

I think MCN had 4 or so pages in PDF on evaluating leather cleaners/conditioners

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Jamie

It was in the January 2004 Issue - there was an article on Leather Care.

I use Eagle One Leather Cleaner and conditioner for auto-leather interiors.

I spray and wipe with cleaner, then I rub in conditioner. Wait 30 minutes, then I wipe the leathers down with a cloth.

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How can I clean my leather suits at home? I have several that have been repeatedly sweat soaked and the salt is accumulating in white patches. There are also dirt smudges and bug splats.

I have heard of wearing the suit into the shower, washing it with leather cleaner, then conditioning.

I need specifics:
What is the cleaning method to use at home to remove this soaked-in soil and salt?
What cleaners, specifically should be used?
How should they be applied?
How long should they be allowed to work?
How should the leathers be dried?
What conditioner should be used?
How is the conditioner applied?


Alternatively:
Where is a reputable and affordable motorcycle leather dry cleaner in the southeast? I am in South Carolina.

Bucky, threads merged - see above for answers to your questions.

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Ryan
Racing is an addiction cured only by poverty.

I use saddle soap to clean, hang it up and let it dry overnight, and then use some sort of leather cream conditioner.

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Even the Ninja must run....in the face of a Hurricane.

I found an article on MCN website by Daniel Thornton dated 11/30/06, but it does not discuss how to get soaked-in sweat and salt out.

Have I missed the article Falcn mentioned in the January 2004 issue? I could find nothing in 2004 at all.

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/articles/Index1204.pdf

Right there on the article list is Leather Care from January 2004. Getting a copy of the actual article is another story.

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Ryan
Racing is an addiction cured only by poverty.

Bucky, I use saddle soap to get salt out of my leather work boots during the winter. IMO saddle soap is a real good leather cleaner, but its not a conditioner, despite its claims.

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Even the Ninja must run....in the face of a Hurricane.

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/model_eval.asp

Ok scroll down to the bottom, and bingo parts 1 to 4 of the leather care products comparison.

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Ryan
Racing is an addiction cured only by poverty.

Thanks for the help!

...on OTB's sentiments. Beware the waterproofing in excess if any at all. If you do get it wet just condition after it dries.

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2006 Yam FZ1

OK, this always gets a "You don't know WTF your saying" response, but I've washed leather in the washing machine with Woolite and Downy for years.

You need to follow the same rules regarding colors and you have to lay the leather flat to dry and avoid sunlight, but I've never had an issue.

You can also use this line of products.

http://www.leathertherapy.com/solution.html

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From the manufacturers of Leather Therapy whose link is cited above by Rob Hephner. I have not tried this as yet.

September 29, 2007

Hello Bucky:

We have received a virtual flood of inquiries from motorcyclists [probably from squidbusters members] recently regarding Leather Therapy products. Although our products were created for the “working” leathers finding utility in the equestrian marketplace, the same leathers are commonplace within the motorcycle sport market. So, when we give direction to questions such as yours, please note that our experience lies more with equestrian chaps and jackets as opposed to full-leather constructed racing suits.

The world of salt-patched, bug-splatted, sweat-soaked leathers is new to us, however, manure-laden, rain-soaked, saliva-saturated leathers is not. (I’m starting to really like this letter.)

First, test the leather for color-fastness by using a dampened white towel edge to gently rub the leather. I know that some outfits are fashioned using strong colors to accent the cyclist’s basic black outfit. I would hope that all of the leather components are of the same high-quality to allow wetting while cleaning.

Okay, with the deep debris you speak of in your suits I can suggest two alternative cleaning solutions: The first requires dunking the outfit in the washing machine with our patented Leather Laundry Solution and it’s sister product, Laundry Rinse & Dressing. ONLY use cool water, delicate cycles and make sure to turn the suit inside-out to protect from agitation of washing paddles or zipper abrasions. If you have a very large washing net type of bag which will allow gentle cleaning of the garment that’s even better. FYI, the newer front-loading washing machines make this job a dream.

Make sure you wash only 1 item at a time. DON’T DRY ANY PLACE NEAR HEAT – NOR IN THE SUN. At least 4 ounces of Laundry Solution and about the same of the Rinse & Dressing should do it. This will be the best way to get the very deep grime out of your outfit.

You can dry the garment on a hanger – or, if it’s too heavy, lay it flat – then sponge on a coat of Laundry Rinse & Dressing to provide lubricity to interior fiber as the garment dries. Once in a while, shake or “pat” the leather to manipulate leather fiber and promote flexibility.

If the leather seems extra dry for some reason, feel free to also use Leather Therapy RESTORER/CONDITIONER. This product is the workhorse of our product line, and is used at the Smithsonian, Disney, leather manufacturing and repair as maintenance on old or new leathers. It DEEPLY gets into the interior fiber corium of leather, spreads laterally and goes a long way to improve the strength and longevity (as well as beauty) of leather.

If the laundry scenario seems a little too daring for your garments then I suggest spraying the suit with Leather Therapy WASH and yes, absolutely, get into the shower (sorry, NOT HOT WATER) and suds the bugs and grime off. A nice sponge would come in handy here. Then – before you get out (and after you unclog the drainJ) give your outfit a generous amount of Leather Therapy Restorer/Conditioner. Hang the suit to dry.

As an aside, if you have clothing with images painted on the leather, you’ll find the image enhanced by Leather Therapy Restorer. It helps to re-vitalize the pigment of the paints. After all is dry and refreshed, check the garment for areas of abrasion or extra wear. On those areas you may wish to try Leather Therapy FINISH – for a nice luster and a little more protection.

All of these products can be applied with a clean sponge. The length of time to condition each garment depends on the dryness and soil levels in the leather. Leather Therapy makes caring for leather very easy. Just let the products do the work for you, and don’t rub too hard on the leather please. Treat it like what it is – skin.

Leather Therapy is sold nationwide in many equestrian tack shops, in Tractor Supply stores, through our website or directly from our home office at 800.711.8225 in New Jersey.

And don’t forget to treat your riding boots, gloves and bike leathers with Leather Therapy. Our new ad will feature a horse morphing into a motorcycle and read: No matter what you ride….Leather Therapy makes leather behave…..Beautifully!

Hope this has helped answer your questions.

Anna Carner
Leather Therapy
800.711.8225

I tried the Woolite method on my German Polo 2-piece leather suit. It is black with bright yellow trim. It was very salty from sweat, had many bug splats, and some general soil.

Method used:

First, test the leather for color-fastness by using a dampened white towel edge to gently rub the leather. If there is little or no transfer of color to the towel, this indicates that the quality of the leather components is high enough to allow wetting while cleaning.

Use a domestic washing machine. I used a top-loader. A front-loader is probably better.
Set water level to maximum.
Set for cold wash and cold rinse.
Set agitation and spin speeds to delicate (slow).

Close all zippers and Velcro.
Remove all armor that is not washable.
Turn the garment inside out to protect from washing machine agitator and zipper abrasions.

Fill washing machine tub.
Add 4 oz Woolite for All Colors.
Agitate for one minute or distribute soap.

Submerge garment completely and distribute it evenly in the tub to reduce imbalance during spin portion of cycle. Wash only 1 item at a time

Set agitation time for 12 minutes. When that time has elapsed, but before the wash water has drained, reset the washing machine timer for an additional 12 minutes.

When the second 12 minute agitation portion of the cycle is complete, allow the machine to complete its cycle.
Again set the washing machine to rinse and allow it to rinse an additional time to thoroughly remove soap.

Remove garment from tub.
Turn it right side out.
Hang on a wide hanger to avoid stretching the garment during drying. If it is too heavy, lay it flat.

While still wet, spray or wipe on with a clean sponge a liberal amount of Lexol Leather Conditioner, Preservative.

Allow to air dry. DO NOT DRY NEAR HEAT OR IN THE SUN.
Occasionally, shake or “pat” the leather to manipulate the leather fibers and promote flexibility.
If laying flat to dry, turn over frequently to allow all portions to dry.

Once dry, again treat with Lexol Leather Conditioner, Preservative.
Allow to dry and wipe off any excess.

It took a good three days for my gear to dry in an air conditioned room.

The leather came out soft, has a nice sheen, and a bit of an oily feel to it. The black and yellow sections are clean.

Bucky

Hmmm. I'm not down with submerging my suit in water.

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Ryan
Racing is an addiction cured only by poverty.

Yea, it's a leap of faith. Once you wash a $3K saddle that way because you have to....you believe.

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IBA# 25648

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Saddles don't come between me and asphalt.

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Ryan
Racing is an addiction cured only by poverty.

Yea, they are way more important.

Ride a horse for a few years and you'll understand my point of view on that one. (Even been bucked off one?)

BTW, if you are not properly conditioning your leather by removing salts and other minerals pulled into it by capillary effect, you are already compromising its performance.

Oh, BTW...

If you want to make your leather more protective from abrasion, you should actually water harden it.....look it up! (Not gonna be very pliable however.)

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See My Photos Here!

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